Mt. Hood

Wy’East

Mt. Hood offers many classic alpine routes. Whether you're taking your first steps in mountaineering or looking for a more advanced objective, we have the perfect climb for you.

South Side Routes: Pearly Gates & Old Chute

These are the standard routes to Oregon’s highest point and great objectives for both novice and experienced climbers. Each variation features sections of steep snow, with the possibility of alpine ice climbing near the summit. The Pearly Gates and Old Chute routes are excellent next steps for graduates of our 5-day Mountaineering Course or climbers looking to build experience before attempting more technical ascents like Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur, Mt. Shuksan’s Fisher Chimneys, or Mt. Baker’s North Ridge.

The first day is spent doing a gear check and a half-day alpine climbing course to ensure you're ready for the climb. However, experienced climbers who have previously participated in a Trillium Alpine Guides program and are confident in their gear selection may opt for a one-day ascent.

Additionally, the South Side routes are a prime venue for spring ski mountaineering, offering fantastic opportunities for those looking to ski from the summit.

Cooper Spur

For climbers seeking a more challenging and remote alpine experience, the Cooper Spur route offers a striking ascent of Mt. Hood’s east ridge. This is an intermediate-level two-day climb that requires strong movement skills on steep snow and ice.

On day one, we’ll approach the mountain and establish high camp at Tie-in-Rock, setting the stage for an early morning summit push. On day two, we’ll climb nearly 2,000 feet of steep snow, with breathtaking views of Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, Mt. Rainier, and the Columbia River Gorge. After reaching the summit, we’ll descend the South Side and return to Timberline Lodge.

The Cooper Spur is ideal for climbers who have prior Mt. Hood experience and are ready to take their alpine skills to the next level.

Other Mt. Hood Routes

  • Reid Glacier Headwall and Leuthold Couloir – Advanced-level steep snow and ice climbs on the mountain’s west side

  • Cathedral Ridge – A committing and not-often-traveled advanced-level ridge climb

  • Sunshine Route – A remote and beautiful intermediate-level route that involves a carry over of the mountain

No matter which route you choose, climbing Mt. Hood is an unforgettable experience, and we’re here to guide you every step of the way.

Duration: 2 days

Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1

Price per person:
1 climber $1545
2 climbers $927

Dates: Custom, private dates are available from January through April.

Gear List

Two climbers reach the top of the Old Chute on Mt. Hood
A climber on the summit ridge of Mt. Hood above the Newton Clark Headwall
Two climbers nearing the top of the Cooper Spur route on Mt. Hood
A climber on the final ice step in the Devil's Kitchen Headwall on Mt. Hood
A group of climbers on the summit of Mt. Hood
Climbers celebrate a successful summit climb of Mt. Hood via the Cooper Spur route