Mt. Hood

Wy’East

South Side

These are the standard routes to Oregon’s highest point! There are several variations of this classic route, the most popular are the Pearly Gates and the Old Chute. No matter which route we climb, you can expect to encounter multiple sections of steep snow and possibly some alpine ice climbing.

Climbing the Pearly Gates and the Old Chute are entry-level programs that are great objectives for novice and seasoned mountaineers alike. These routes are an excellent option for graduates of the 5-day Mountaineering Course and for climbers looking for a stepping stone to more technically challenging routes, such as Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur, Mt. Shuksan’s Fisher Chimneys, or Mt. Baker’s North Ridge.

The day before our summit attempt, we will conduct a gear check followed by a half-day alpine climbing course. However, experienced mountaineers and climbers who have previously participated in an alpine program with Trillium Alpine Guides can choose to book this as a one-day climb.

Additionally, the South Side of Mt. Hood is the perfect venue for all levels of ski mountaineering in the spring.

Duration: 1 or 2 days

Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1

Price per person per day:
1 climber $750
2 climbers $450

Dates: Custom, private dates are available from January through April.

Gear List

Cooper Spur

The Cooper Spur route is an intermediate-level program that ascends the striking east ridge of Mt. Hood, leading directly to the summit. This spectacular route requires two days to complete in alpine style.

On the first day, we will approach the mountain and establish a high camp at Tie-in-Rock. The second day will focus on the ascent, which involves approximately 2,000 feet of steep snow and ice climbing. Along the way, you can expect breathtaking views of the Columbia River Gorge, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier.

Once we reach the summit, we will descend a route on the south side of the mountain back to Timberline Lodge. This program is ideal for climbers who enjoyed climbing the Pearly Gates or Old Chute and seek a more challenging and remote alpine experience.

Duration: 2 days

Max climber-to-guide ratio: 2:1

Price per person:
1 climber $1500
2 $900

Dates: Custom, private dates are available from January through April.

Gear List

Two climbers reach the top of the Old Chute on Mt. Hood
A climber on the summit ridge of Mt. Hood above the Newton Clark Headwall
Two climbers nearing the top of the Cooper Spur route on Mt. Hood
A climber on the final ice step in the Devil's Kitchen Headwall on Mt. Hood
A group of climbers on the summit of Mt. Hood
Climbers celebrate a successful summit climb of Mt. Hood via the Cooper Spur route