Monkey Face
Rising 350 feet above the Crooked River, Monkey Face is one of the most iconic rock formations in the United States. The Pioneer Route is the classic route to the summit that involves trad and aid climbing. We like to climb the West Face Variation, which adds two pitches of high-quality crack climbing to an already spectacular adventure. The climbing is great and the summit views are even better but many climbers report that the 200-foot free-hanging rappel is the highlight of their day.
Route Breakdown (5 Pitches)
Pitch 1: (5.7) – A long pitch with many different styles of crack climbing. It’s got everything from wide to thin.
Pitch 2: (5.8) – Follows a ramp to a corner crack and a short overhang.
Pitch 3: (5.6) Traverses left to the notch that defines the Monkey Face and then a bit of slab climbing brings you to a big ledge where the aid climbing begins.
Pitch 4: (A0 aid climbing) – This is the famous bolt ladder pitch.
Pitch 5: (5.7) – "Panic Point" is a short but exciting overhanging move with incredible exposure!
When we reach the summit, we’ll take some time to high-five and soak in the desert views before the 200-foot free-hanging rappel back to the base.